Iran

After Lina and Pia had changed their western clothes to something more appropriate we entered Iran a month ago. Crossing the border was no problem. Since then we have visited a number of places, a lot of nice people and learnt a lot about a country we knew hardly anything about - and a lot of what we thought we knew is not as we thought =)

Pia enjoying her new outfit in the Tabriz bazaar (Pentax k10d)

The first stop we made was in Tabriz, where we stayed two nights and arranged with the car insurance. At the place we stayed we met a guy called Costa and his wife Tsi. He is originally from Greece and she from Japan. Costa has been travelling for eighteen years, including living one year naked at New Guinea. The stories he can tell…! Since then they have been travelling with us, Tsi in Richard and Lina’s car and Costa in Pia and Milan’s.

Costa and Tsi showing us where to go in Indonesia (Pentax k10d)

We stayed two nights in a park in Zanjan on our way to Tehran. It was meant to be one night but due to the cue for diesel we had to stay one more. The diesel, by the way, is 1 Euro for more than 100 litres =).

Queing for diesel. 1 euro for more than 100 litres :) (Pentaxk10d)

We where recommended by some people we met to stay at the Shrine of Imam Khomeini where there is a nice park, 24 hours toilets and subway into the city. We had to arrange with the visa to India so this seemed like a perfect place; two of us could stay in the park with the kids and two go in to Tehran. The place, however, is a very religious place. During our stay people tried to get us to put our kids in the Islamic school by giving us water, juice and cakes – a lot. Richard ended up in a tent with a young guy and his five doves. He wanted to “guide” Richard. Different place and probably not representative for Iran, but we had many interesting conversations and met many friendly people. We even had food cooked for us in the park one night.

Unfortunately there has been too much time spent on the Indian Visa. First they didn’t want to issue one. After we mentioned that we were filming, they said they will consider issuing them and that it will take a month… to be continued… We stayed in Tehran four nights and then we left to go to Kashan.

The myth says that the three wise men travelled from Kashan when they heard Jesus was born. The city is also known to be a very nice place with different architecture. We stayed outside the town, at a place called Fin Garden. The place to be, we noticed. The actual garden is located at the end of a long street. Along the street, on both sides, there is water from natural springs which they also have lead to a park area where you can sit in the shadow and have picnic. Having picnic is however the national sport. They have picnic everywhere at all times. The Iranians love their parks and so do we. Wherever there is a park there is clean toilets, sometimes showers and tourists are allowed to camp everywhere. Very social. We first stayed four nights in a parking place, in the upper corner as far away from everybody as we could for privacy. It did help but despite the fact that we thought no one would spot us the drove across the empty parking to take pictures of the children… We spent time in the garden, at the bazaar of Kashan, bought water pipes (which we by now are totally addicted to) and visited a home where we got served tongue. Milan and Richard got their hair cut by Costa and his trimmer and now they only have about one centimetre of hair. Tsi and Costa stayed two nights in the house of an Iranian family. The fifth night in Kashan we where invited there as well (all ten of us!) to stay in their house and have dinner. The house is situated in Kashan, near the centre and is very nice. There is hardly any furniture and beatiful carpets on all flours. You eat on the flour, drink on the flour and sleep on the flour. Brilliant! We stayed two nights there. Amazing family, we really felt welcome. The first night we had dinner and then went for a night picnic at 2000 m height.

The kids playing in the fingarden, Kashan. (Pentax k10d)

After totally seven nights in Kashan we decided to move on. We stayed one night in Abyanesh, a village with houses that looks a little like ginger bread houses and is UNESCO World Heritage. Pia got very tired of wearing a peace of textile on the head in thirty degrees. This she could not change so she consulted Costa and his trimmer. We are now three happy, not so hot, skinheads =) From Abyaneh we went to Esfahan – the most beautiful and historical city of Iran according to many Iranians. This we can confirm, not that we have been everywhere, but it is one of the nicest cities we’ve been. We stayed at a parking place by a park for a week. Here we met some other overlanders and again we heard that Pakistan was their nicest experience along their route and in particular the Karakoum highway. Talking to the Pakistan official on the phone, he explained that there is no need for all the family members to come to the embassy in Tehran to apply for the Visa. So the last three days Lina and Pia was left alone with the kids since Milan and Richard had to go to Teheran to arrange with the Indian and now Pakistan Visa. Pia and Lina spent the time having lunch at nice Iranian families home.

Luka walking around in Abyanneh

Tuvalie in the Imam mosque, Esfahan (Pentax k10d)

The first mission in Tehran was to get the Indian paperwork fixed. After some time of inpatient waiting at the embassy we got to meet the man who has no power, as he quickly stated himself. We were then send to his senior, who we did meet a week ago. He explained that he also don’t have any power to deal wit this question and therefore he set up a meeting wit the person who is powerful enough to help us. This very friendly man was sitting behind a huge desk on which his title was written. This was the consulate general. After answering a few of his questions he smiled and picked up the phone and explained to the man we just met that we were basic tourists that have ended upin a diplomatic spin. Soon after we had the stamps in our passports. Pakistan next. When Richard and Milan turned up at the Pakistan embassy, after travelling all night by train, the same person who they talked to on the phone asked where the wives and kids where. When he was told that they are still in Esfahan and referred to the phone agreement he became very arrogant and explained that it not possible to interview people who are not here J. Richard and Milan had to go back to get the rest of the families as the first had to service the cars. Back in Tehran, all eight of us stayed in a sheep hotel. The whole procedure took longer than expected (as usual) and we ended up spending four nights there.

From Tehran we drove to Yazd staying one night on the way in Esfahan. Yazd is the oldest living city in the world! We now live at the parking place of the Silk Road Hotel and will stay In Yazd two more nights after which we head towards the border of Pakistan via Bam and Zahedan.

Lunch in the desert on the way to Yazd (Pentax k10d)

And then some refreshements (Pentax k10d)

We will hopefully get back to this country one day. The people are amazing, so friendly! We have so many new friends that hopefully will visit us in Sweden.